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CHAPTER 1
I
got a call in February from a reporter in Rochester. It was our second
straight week of single digit temperatures with another whopping snowstorm
heading up the coast. The reporter's boss told him to find a story that
would get people to stop complaining about the weather. Could I contact a
friend in Siberia, he asked, who might add a little perspective? "No
problem," I told him, "I'll call Uncle Vanya."
Uncle Vanya and his wife, Anya, live in a village that could best be
described as a long way from everywhere. Babushka, Anya's mother, lives
with them as well. She works all day around the house, then stays up late
listening to the family's "kitchen STORIES," though, in the winter, she no
longer does shashlik [barbecuing in the woods]. It's not the cold, it's
just that her short legs can't plow through the deep snow anymore.
The village has the only k-12 school in the area, so children from the
surrounding smaller villages walk as much as six miles to school each day.
There are no snow days, as there are no school busses. There aren't any
snow plows either but, then again, that's not really a problem, as most
people don't have cars. Walking keeps everyone healthy and guarantees they
sleep well at night.
"The secret to surviving a long winter," Uncle Vanya began, "is a
samovar."
"Tea doesn't seem like a very convincing solution, Uncle Vanya."
"It's not the tea," he continued. "Tea is just a way to have dushevnee
razgavor [a conversation for the soul]. Just yesterday Babushka started to
fill the samovar when there was a knock on the window. I pulled back the
curtain and who should be peering in but Misha. He bellowed at me to hurry
up. He was frozen stiff. It was -30°. So I hustled out to let him in.
"Misha smells dinner cooking and says, 'Why not give Ivan a call?
We'll have a good dushevnee razgavor.' "
"So we call Ivan. I say to him, 'Ivan! How fast can you get here?
Babushka cooked potatoes in their jackets [baked potatoes]. Hurry up,
they're horrible cold!' Ivan loves potatoes in their jackets with a big
plate of fish, so he got over here fast as a fly. We kept the samovar going
all night. We had a great time."
I began to worry. Fish and potatoes, and even Earl Grey, weren't much
of a story. Still there was one hopeful clue. "Did you say all night,
Uncle Vanya?"
"Of course! We argued all night."
"I thought you said you had a good time?"
"We had a great time. Who else can you argue with, without losing
them, but real friends?"
"I never thought about it like that before, Uncle Vanya."
"We got off again on the topic of a refuge at the border." [The border
refers to the line where Europe meets Asia. It's a very symbolic landmark
in the Ural Mountains.]
"What kind of refuge, Uncle Vanya?"
"Sort of like a church. But you can't describe it that way, because
people have ruined the term. Ivan wanted to turn it into a commercial
resort. I told him the world doesn't need one more resort. No, I told him
there has to be a place that feels like it belongs to everyone without any
strings attached . . . sort of like the Bible. It doesn't belong to any one
group or nationality. There should be a place like that. Unfortunately, we
had to break it up at five. We all had to be at work by eight."
And that was Uncle Vanya's answer to a long winter.
Copyright 2003 Access to
Ideas. All rights reserved. For permission to reprint contact the Editor
at books@worldpath.net
Chapter 2
Chapter 3
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